The Town Mouse - The Wandering Palate

A fleeting visit through Melbourne on the way back from Singapore allowed time for only one lunch, so a return to the Town Mouse seemed like a good idea, give the wonderful experience we had last time. And we had another great lunch, really enjoying some small plates to start and then a much larger plate to share for main course, this time a 900gram (more like 1.3kg) slow-roasted shoulder of lamb that was cooked to perfection, the dish further enhanced by a glass of Bella Ridge Estate Beau Pere 2005, a smoky, meaty, hedonistic blend of the best barrels from this most fascinating winegrower in the Swan Valley http://www.bellaridge.com.au A full review on the Town Mouse in the pipeline and looking like a strong candidate for my restaurant of the year. Read More >

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From a lost play by Eubulos, (c.405 BC - c.335 BC)
‘For sensible men I prepare only three kraters (large vase used to mix wine): one for health (which they drink first), the second for love and pleasure, and the third for sleep. After the third one is drained, wise men go home.

The fourth krater is not mine any more - it belongs to bad behaviour; the fifth is for shouting; the sixth is for rudeness and insults; the seventh is for fights; the eighth is for breaking the furniture; the ninth is for depression; the tenth is for madness and unconsciousness.’

"In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read.

But the bitter truth we critics must face is that, in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic truly risks something, and that is in the discovery and defence of the new.”

As uttered by the vitriolic restaurant critic Anton Ego, in the film “Ratatouille”, after his epiphany.